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The short answer: proof the rooms your dog can reach, then limit which rooms that is. Get down on your hands and knees and look at each room from your dog's level. Secure the cords, lock away the medicines, cleaners, baits and antifreeze, remove the toxic plants, pick up anything small enough to swallow, and shut the toilet lids, windows and doors. Then give your dog one safe room with a crate and gates, and open up the rest of the house only as your dog earns it. Most household accidents are preventable, and almost all of them come from things left within reach.
The American Kennel Club and the ASPCA give the same first instruction, and it is the most useful one in this guide: get down on your hands and knees and look at your home from your dog's point of view. Things that look safely out of reach to an adult standing up can be easy pickings for a curious puppy at floor level. Ask yourself one question in each room: if I were a puppy, what could I chew, swallow, pull down, climb into or knock over?
Do this before your dog arrives if you can, and repeat it as your dog grows. Something that is out of reach at eight weeks may be easy to reach a few weeks later. A puppy that could not reach the kitchen counter last month may be tall enough to surf it now. The ASPCA points out that pets gain access to new objects as they grow, so a house that was safe for a small puppy needs a fresh check as the dog gets bigger.
Walk the whole route your dog will take: from the front door to the garden, through every room the dog will enter. Bring a bag and a notepad. Pick up what should not be there, and write down what needs a latch, a hook, a gate or a new home on a high shelf. The rest of this guide goes room by room, but the hands and knees check is what makes it real for your house.
The kitchen holds the most temptations in the house, so it is the best place to start. Fit childproof latches to low cupboards, especially the ones that hold cleaning products, bin bags, dishwasher tablets and sharp knives. A curious puppy can nose a low cupboard open in seconds, and a determined adult dog can learn to do it too. Keep the bin behind a latched cupboard door or use a bin with a locking lid, because garbage can upset a dog's stomach or be poisonous, and the smells coming from it are a strong pull.
Clear the counters. The ASPCA warns that a motivated pet will usually find a way to reach anything left on a counter if it knows the prize is up there. Never leave food, medicines, cleaning supplies or candles on a counter within reach. Chocolate, xylitol in sugar-free gum and candy, grapes and raisins are among the foods that are poisonous to dogs, and they sit on kitchen counters in most homes. Our can dogs eat it guide covers the common foods one by one, with the verdict and the safe amount for each.
Watch the floor too. Dropped pills are a common cause of pet poisoning, so take medicines in one spot every day and put them away when you are done. Sweep up dropped food promptly, and keep the dog out of the kitchen while you cook with hot oil or boiling water. A wagging tail can sweep a mug off a low table, and a curious nose can reach a hot hob.
Start with the cords. Electrical cords are the single most dangerous thing in most living rooms, because a dog that chews through one can suffer burns to the mouth or an electric shock. Unplug devices you are not using. Move the cords you need behind heavy furniture, and run them through cord concealers or conduit where they cross open floor. Secure blind and curtain cords high up, so they cannot wrap around a dog's neck. Cover unused sockets, and unplug chargers when they are not in use.
Pick up the small things. Coins, paper clips, rubber bands, hair ties, jewelry, remote control batteries and children's toys are all choking hazards, and dogs swallow them more often than owners expect. The ASPCA notes that dogs have been known to eat small toys and suffer an intestinal blockage, so keep children's toys picked up and put away once play is over. Socks and underwear are a classic swallowed item: keep the laundry basket closed and off the floor.
Check the furniture and the plants. Anchor tall bookcases, televisions and shelving to the wall, because a dog that jumps up at a shelf can pull it down. Move poisonous houseplants completely out of your dog's reach, or out of the house. The ASPCA toxic and non-toxic plants list is the reference to check against, and our toxic plants guide lists the common offenders. Move candles away from tail level: a wandering tail can knock a candle over and burn your dog or start a fire.
Keep the valuables safe as well. The AKC suggests moving breakables and valuables away from low places and into lockable bins while a puppy is teething, because puppies chew everything they can reach. Shoes, glasses, books and remote controls all belong in a closed cupboard or on a high shelf until your dog has learned what is allowed to chew.
The bathroom is a small room with a lot of hazards in it. Keep all medicines, vitamins and supplements in a closed cabinet, never on a low table, a bathroom counter or a night table where a dog can reach them. The ASPCA is clear that many medicines that are safe for people can be deadly for dogs when used the wrong way, and that you should never give your dog a human medicine unless your veterinarian directs it. Razors, scissors, cotton buds and hair ties belong in a closed drawer or cabinet. Keep the toilet lid closed at all times, so your dog cannot drink from the toilet or fall in, and keep cleaning products and bleach in a high cabinet or behind a childproof latch.
The bedroom needs the same treatment. Keep medicines off the night table, and keep handbags and coats hung up, since they often hold gum, pills, chocolate and earbuds. Tie up long blind cords. Keep laundry in a closed hamper, and keep shoes in a closed cupboard: laces and insoles are popular chew targets. If you use essential oils or scented candles, check them first, because some oils are toxic to dogs when eaten or breathed in at high concentration, and a knocked over candle is a fire risk.
Laundry and cleaning products belong in a high cabinet or behind a childproof latch, and the dog stays out of the room while they are used, because the fumes from chemicals can affect a dog too. Laundry detergent, fabric softener sheets, dishwasher tablets and bleach are all hazardous if eaten. Keep the washing machine and dryer doors shut: a small dog can climb into an open drum.
The garage and garden shed hold the most lethal items in the house. Antifreeze is the worst of them: it tastes sweet, so dogs are drawn to it, and the ASPCA notes that less than one tablespoon of it could be lethal to a 20 pound dog. Store antifreeze, oil, gasoline and paints on high shelves in sealed containers, and clean up any spill or leak on the driveway at once. Keep rat and mouse baits, ant and roach traps, and snail and slug baits where animals cannot reach them at all, because their sweet smelling ingredients attract pets as much as they attract pests. The ASPCA warns that a bait station labelled pet resistant is not the same as pet proof. Keep fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides locked away, and keep your dog off a treated lawn until it is dry and the label says it is safe.
Other small items in a garage or shed can be lethal in small amounts too. The ASPCA ten tips list includes pennies, which carry a high concentration of zinc, mothballs, batteries, potpourri oils, automatic dish detergent, homemade play dough, which is very salty, and hand and foot warmers, which carry high levels of iron. Keep all of them in closed containers on high shelves, and keep tools, nails, screws and sharp objects in a locked toolbox.
Fence the yard if you can, with a fence high enough to stop your dog jumping over it and no holes or gaps to crawl through. Walk the fence line every few weeks, because dogs dig, and a gap that was not there last month may be there now. Remove toxic plants from the yard, and check the garden before you let a new dog out: azalea, oleander, sago palm, Easter lily and yew are among the plants the ASPCA says can be fatal if a dog eats them.
Put a fence around an in-ground pool. Pools are a big hazard, and a dog that falls in may not be able to climb out. If you have a pond, cover it or fence it too. Set aside one part of the yard as your dog's bathroom area, and keep it clear of chemicals and sharp objects. Store garden tools, hoses and netting where the dog cannot chew or tangle in them, and keep the compost heap fenced off: rotting food and mouldy compost can be toxic to dogs.
Supervise a new dog outside, especially a puppy. The AKC advises watching for toxic plants, chemicals, heat and escape routes, and never leaving a young puppy alone on a balcony, where it can fall or slip through railings. Shade and fresh water matter in hot weather, and a dog that has just been treated for fleas or ticks should be kept away from other pets until the product has dried.
The table below pulls the hazards from this guide into one place. If you lock away everything on it, and keep your dog out of the rooms where the rest sits, you have covered most of the risk in a normal home.
| Hazard | Where it hides | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Human medicines | Night tables, bathroom counters, handbags, low tables | Closed cabinets, high shelves, never give to a dog unless a vet directs it |
| Cleaning products and bleach | Kitchen and bathroom cupboards, laundry room | High cabinets or childproof latches, dog out of the room while in use |
| Chocolate, xylitol gum, grapes and raisins | Counters, coffee tables, handbags, coat pockets | Sealed containers on high shelves, never left out |
| Toxic plants | Window sills, garden beds, patios | Check against the ASPCA list, remove or move out of reach |
| Rat and mouse baits, insect traps | Along walls, under sinks, in the garage | Where animals cannot reach them at all, remember pet resistant is not pet proof |
| Antifreeze, oil, gasoline | Garage shelves, driveway, shed | Sealed containers on high shelves, clean up spills at once |
| Small swallowable objects | Floors, low tables, laundry baskets, toy boxes | Picked up daily, laundry in a closed hamper, toys put away after play |
| Electrical and blind cords | Behind the television, by lamps, at windows | Unplugged when not in use, behind furniture, through concealers, tied high |
| Pennies, batteries, mothballs | Junk drawers, remotes, wardrobes, garage shelves | Closed containers on high shelves, batteries out of remotes when spare |
If you are unsure whether something in your home is safe, check it against the ASPCA toxic and non-toxic lists, or ask your veterinarian, before your dog can reach it. Our household toxins hub covers the same ground in more detail, with the signs of poisoning and what to do next.
You cannot dog-proof every corner of a house at once, and you do not need to. The AKC suggests starting a new puppy in one room until the dog is familiar with the house and has some basic commands down. Pick a room with a hard floor that is easy to clean, and make it the dog's own space: a crate with the door open, a bed, fresh water, a few safe chew toys, and nothing the dog should not reach.
Use baby gates to keep the dog in its safe room and out of rooms you have not proofed yet. Gates let the dog see and hear the household, which helps it settle, while keeping it away from hazards. A crate is the other half of the setup: crate training gives your dog a den to sleep in and a safe place to go when the house gets busy. Never use the crate as punishment, and never leave a puppy in it for hours on end.
Open up the rest of the house gradually. Let the dog into one new room at a time, on a lead at first, and watch what it goes for. When a room is safe and the dog is calm in it, it stays open. When a room keeps producing trouble, it stays gated until the dog is older and better trained. Our first week at home guide walks through the same idea day by day, with feeding, sleep and toilet routines for the first seven days.
Stay calm and act fast. Take the item or its packaging away from your dog, and keep your dog where you can see it. Then call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately. The line is open 24 hours a day. Tell them what your dog ate, how much, and when, and your dog's weight. Keep the packaging and a sample of what was eaten if you can, because that information is what lets them help your dog.
Do not try to make your dog vomit unless the veterinarian or the poison control center tells you to. Do not give milk, food, salt water or any home remedy first. Watch for vomiting, drooling, shaking, wobbliness, collapse or trouble breathing, and tell the vet about any of them. Fast, accurate information matters more than anything you can do at home.
After an incident, do a fresh hands and knees check of the room where it happened, and fix whatever let your dog reach the item. Most poisonings happen because something was left within reach for a moment too long, and the fix is usually a latch, a higher shelf or a closed door. Keep the ASPCA number saved in your phone and written on the fridge, so nobody in the house has to search for it in an emergency.
Use this list as a final walk through before a new dog arrives, and again every few months as your dog grows.
Dog-proofing is never finished, it just gets easier. The first pass takes an afternoon. After that, it is a habit: a quick scan of the floor before you leave the room, a latch checked before you leave the house, and a fresh look each time your dog grows into new reach. A dog that is safe at home is a dog that can relax, learn and be part of the family, and that is the whole point of the work.
More help: all our dog guides, and the first week at home guide for what comes next after the house is ready.
Walk every room your puppy will enter, on your hands and knees, and look for what can be chewed, swallowed, pulled down or knocked over. Secure electrical cords, put medications and cleaning products in closed cabinets, remove toxic plants, secure trash cans, pick up small objects, close toilet lids, and lock or screen windows and doors. Set up one safe room with a crate and gates before the puppy arrives, and keep the rest of the house closed off until your puppy knows the rules.
The items that send the most dogs to the vet are human medications, cleaning products, rat and mouse baits, antifreeze, chocolate, xylitol in sugar-free gum and candy, grapes and raisins, and small swallowed objects such as socks, coins, batteries and children's toys. All of them belong in closed cabinets, high shelves or locked storage, never on low tables or open counters. If your dog swallows any of them, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 right away.
Many common houseplants are toxic, and a few can be fatal. The ASPCA lists azalea, oleander, sago palm, Easter lily and yew among the plants whose material can kill a dog if eaten. Lilies, aloe vera, pothos and philodendron are also on the ASPCA toxic list. Check every plant you own against the ASPCA toxic and non-toxic plants list, and move any toxic plant completely out of your dog's reach or out of the house. Our guide to toxic plants for dogs lists the common offenders room by room.
First, remove the temptation: unplug devices you are not using, move cords behind furniture, and run the cords you need through cord concealers or conduit. Bitter tasting sprays can help on a cord you cannot move, but they are a backup, not the fix. Give your dog a safe chew instead, such as a stuffed chew toy, and praise the dog for choosing it. A dog that chews cords when left alone usually needs more exercise and more to chew, not more scolding. If a cord is chewed through, turn the power off at the socket before you touch it.
Use both, for different jobs. A crate is your dog's own den: a small, safe, comfortable place to sleep and rest, and the place your dog goes when you cannot watch it. Baby gates are for dividing the house, so your dog only enters rooms you have proofed. Start a new puppy in one room with its crate, food and water, and open up more rooms only as the puppy proves it can be trusted in them. Never use a crate as punishment, and never leave a puppy in a crate for hours on end.
Stay calm and act fast. Take the item or its packaging away from your dog, then call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately. Tell them what your dog ate, how much, and when, and your dog's weight. Do not make your dog vomit unless they tell you to, and do not give milk, food or home remedies first. If you can, keep a sample of what was eaten and the packaging. Fast, accurate information is what lets the vet or poison center help your dog.
This page is general information drawn from the published guidance of the organizations listed under Sources below. It is not veterinary advice, and it does not replace your own veterinarian. If your dog eats or drinks something that may be poisonous, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 at once. Do not try to make your dog vomit unless a veterinarian or the poison control center tells you to. Keep the packaging or a sample of what your dog ate, and note how much and when, so the person on the phone can advise you.
Last updated: November 2026. How we work: our methodology.